Baku, they say, is booming. Everywhere you look there are new stores, new filling stations, new bars, new restaurants, new cars, new buildings. My old Russian teacher, Elfrieda, who a mere three years
ago used to complain bitterly about her $10 per month salary and the quality of the meat in the slaughter-in-the-street markets around town, now shops only in the newly opened, spick and span, paper-clips to caviar RamStore, where the hamburger (and chops and steaks and sirloin) is now listed by grade and neatly wrapped in cellophane--and handed over with a thank you very much.
Up and down "Neftjilar Prospekti", or Oilmen's Boulevard, shops, cafÃ©s, and Western-style bars are springing up like so many hydrocarbon-fed mushrooms. Most, like the Ragin' Cajun bistro (run by an American), and the Sine Klub (owned by two Turkish entrepreneurs), cater to foreigners and locals associated with the country's infant Caspian oil industry and the growing diplomatic community. The only thing lacking, it seems--and there are millions of dollars to be made for the first person who picks up the idea--is a series of dry cleaning shops to deal with the piles of new dirty laundry. Oil can do that.
The growing list of international companies (seemingly everyone from Brown & Root to Penzoil now have offices in town) and embassies--there are now seventeen of the latter, including those of Israel and Iran--employ hundreds if not thousands of Azeris, all of whom directly contribute to a "trickle-down" of wealth into the economy as a whole. This is a long way from the Azerbaijan I knew in 1991. It seemed then that I was the only foreigner who was interested in the country. "You are living in Azer-what?" was the usual response from friends and family back in Montana. The response from locals Azeris to my presence was a little different: Because I was the first foreigner (or at least American) that many of my new Baku friends had ever met, my apartment was regarded as the quasi-American embassy in town. I personified the American Presence, an honor I not only did not deserve, but actively resisted.
Today, the situation is much different. The estimated number of registered resident Americans has jumped to six hundred, and the total number of foreigners might top three thousand. Elfrieda now sits on the board of the new Azerbaijan International Women's Society, along with the wives of the American and British ambassadors. The American presence is now institutionalized by a large, well appointed embassy, replete with consular office and
library and dozens of uniformed staff. The other Americans in town range from the hundreds of oil men and their hangers-on to high school student exchange administrators, wandering researchers and Ph.D. candidates (all of whom are learning Azeri and not Russian), and God knows how many representatives of various and sundry non-governmental organizations.
Yes, Baku is booming, and, for "old-timers" like myself, remembering it from the immediate post-Soviet period, it is almost unrecognizable after a mere five years. It is, to start, something of a surprise that there is still an Azerbaijan at all. Since achieving independence in the wake of the August 1991 abortive coup in Moscow, the country has "enjoyed" three presidents, multiple acting presidents, two successful putsches, a handful of attempted coups detat, and generally more instability than most Middle Eastern, Caribbean, or chronically putsch-prone Central and South American countries could pack into a full decade. The reason for this is that Azerbaijan lies smack-dab on the ancient triple fault line where (Orthodox) Christianity abuts on not one but both major forms of
Islam (Shi'i and Sunni), and the modern fault line of cultural/economic/political influence between Russia, Turkey, Iran, and now the energy-hungry West. It is not a nice neighborhood in which to raise a healthy, independently-minded civil society, and it seemed very possible a few years ago that the mixture of rapacity and corruption in the oil sector, defeat at the hands of the Armenians in the eight-year war over Karabakh, and the continued Russian effort to regain control of the country and its resources would conspire to put a quick end to Azerbaijan as an independent state.
But that did not happen, and although all these forces are still at play, more than ever before Azerbaijan actually feels like a real country. And while it may be painful for many to admit it, much of the credit has to go to the current president, former KGB general, Azerbaijan Communist Party boss, and Politburo member under Yuri
Andropov, Heydar Aliyev.
The Improbable Nationalist
When Heydar Aliyev came to power in Baku in 1993--de facto in July, de jure in October--under highly convoluted circumstances, his career credentials suggested the hand of Moscow behind him, with the Russian
arm and the rest of its body soon to follow. What a change from Abulfez Elchibey, a pro-Turkish and pro-Western Azeri nationalist whose main political guidepost appeared to be "anybody but Russia." But to the surprise of most observers inside and outside the country, Aliyev has linked his fate to that of the new, independent, post-Soviet state. He has become a nationalist.